Tag Archives: Italy

Venice in Black and White

Visiting Venice in the winter is like being in a timeless, romantic black and white movie. My friend and I went during a particularly foggy couple of days and were amazed by how the entire city is transformed at this time of the year. The sky was colorless and blank, while the city itself was made up solely of varying shades of black and gray. Humphrey Bogart circa 1940 could have floated by in a gondola and I would not have been the least bit alarmed.

Being on a real life, black and white movie set has its perks. One: your pictures from any angle in the entire city look classic and beautiful, AND pictures of yourself and your friends instantly look artsy, reflective, and deep. Two: Many of the streets and small alleyways are quiet and shiny from all the rain and intermittent flooding– a huge contrast to the hectic tourist season in the spring and summer, when you can’t move your big toe without making awkward (but necessary) contact with a fellow tourist or baby stroller. Three: Just as you start to feel listless and tired of seeing a world in two tones, you can just step into a great Venetian restaurant and have some colorful food!

Oliva Nera

Castello, 3417 Venezia, Italy 30122- (+39) 041 5222170

Oliva Nera: a small, family-run establishment. The restaurant is dimly-lit, cozy and warm, with a very friendly husband and wife team managing the entire experience. I told them I spoke some Italian but hoped to get more practice, and the wife proceeded to explain everything to me slowly in Italian, then once again in English so my friend could also understand without my translating. I must admit, out of all the restaurants I’ve been to in Italy so far, the service has never been more patient and accommodating. The menu is a bit on the pricier side, as is the case with many restaurants in Venice– about 15-20 euros per primo dish– but as my friend and I were on a mission to spend most of our money on food and not on sight-seeing, we rolled with the punches.

1. Combination of Venetian antipasti

My stomach is seriously growling with hunger at the thought of this dish. The round, white mound on the left is baccala mantecato alla veneziana, or dried, salted cod mixed with cream, olive oil, and garlic. Baccala is is loved by many European (and perhaps other) cultures, particularly the Spanish. However, this Italian preparation is absolutely delicious, especially when paired with the crostini we had two baskets of. I found a recipe for it, that I would love to try soon…once I get some hands on some salted cod!

The other appetizers consisted of a mixture of carmelized onions and sweet golden raisins with salty soft-shell crab, a pickled anchovy, and a large basil leaf. The waitress explained that Italians appreciate sweet and sour tastes, much like the Chinese. Hmm..guess so! At any rate, my friend and I mopped up every last bit of the most delicious olive oil in the world as well as any remaining bits of baccala with our crostini and could not wait to see what was next.

Fried Zucchini Flowers

In retrospect, I’m not sure why I ended up taking only one picture of one lonely fried zucchini flower left on the plate…but while we were very systematically demolishing the others I suddenly realized, I did not take any pictures of these giant fried zucchini flowers! I would say that this is one of the toughest things about food blogging- sometimes you just want to eat everything in front of you the moment it comes out and sacrifice the picture for the enjoyment of it all. I loved that the crispy fried flowers were served on top of thin strips of dark green zucchini flavored with that same amazing olive oil.

2. Squid Ink Pasta with Shrimp

I’ve always had a weird curiosity about squid ink pasta. I’m not sure what initially inspired the Italians to add this rich black coloring to their beloved pasta, but I am all for it. It has a very, very subtle hint of squid and seafood, and is great with a light, barely perceptible but flavorful seafood sauce. This dish seemed so simple– sauteed with onions, zucchini, and carrots– that I felt like I was eating at someone’s house. I think it was generally good, but I would have preferred some fresh herbs or a white wine sauce to bring out the taste of the squid ink pasta.

3. Panna Cotta

Of course we weren’t exactly planning to have dessert after the big meal, but somehow, the owner of the restaurant was able to persuade us. The owner stood over our table and drew a picture of a flower on our brown paper place mats and proceeded to carefully write the name of each dessert in each flower petal, while explaining each dish. When he was finished, my friend and I looked at each other and said, “Alright…what do you want to get??” After all, this guy put so much work into it that we felt the desserts must have been worth it. And of course it was.

The panna cotta was the perfect texture– as opposed to the super gelatinous, stiff panna cotta we had tried at another restaurant the day before– and was complemented by the most delicious purple berry sauce on top, and a smooth, yellow vanilla sauce on the bottom. When we finished, the owners presented us each with a bottle of their own brand of olive oil, that we had tasted throughout the meal. Yes! We sat at the table for a while longer, savoring our meal and discussing what we were going to do about the Italian food situation back in the US, and eventually wandered back onto the movie set. Now if only I can decide what the perfect use for this incredible little bottle of olive oil would be, I will be all set. Would love to hear some suggestions! 🙂


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San Gimignano, Italy: Home of the Original Skyscrapers

San Gimignano is a small town in Tuscany, about an hour by bus from Florence. Given its key location in between Florence and Siena, it was once an important stop on the Medieval pilgrimage route, and the center of two warring factions in the 12th century. At the height of its power, the many wealthy families in town built a total of seventy towers to showcase their wealth and power–also referred to as the “original skyscrapers” by locals. Today, the 14 remaining towers are a testament to the city’s ability to withstand war, weather, and time.

Although traveling during the winter means imagining what the countryside might actually look like when things are lively and green, the slightly eerie empty fields create a very beautiful but ghostly effect.The town is surrounded by a large fortress-like medieval wall, that shelters the most picturesque little Italian town. This was the peace and quiet we had been looking for! Besides the occasional tourist and/or local milling about, there was pretty much nobody and no cars in sight. In fact, the one prevailing sound within the entire 10 mile radius of San Gimignano was that of the thunderous wheels of my friend B’s little suitcase as they rolled and echoed loudly over each and every bumpy cobblestone across town– much to the dismay of all the locals who peered at us from their windows because they probably thought a space shuttle was blasting off dangerously close to their town. B and I couldn’t stop laughing hysterically at our sad/hilarious tourist attempt.

There were plenty of leather and food specialty shops along the main road, where there were about ten people (and plenty of boar heads)…Tuscany is all about the wild boar (cinghiale)!  Wild boar prosciutto, salami, and meat can be found at various specialty shops all over town.

There are several points around San Gimignano with panoramic views of the countryside. The tallest tower measures approximately 54 meters (a bit more than 10 stories), and is one of the main attractions in town, as you can climb a decent amount of stairs to the top for magnificent photo ops of the San Gimignano skyline and a chance to count all 14 towers. Beware of the steps down though– I’m not very afraid of heights but I did have trouble going down the stairs because they are made of see-through metal grates!

It got dark pretty quickly, and B and I tried to find something to do after our amazing dinner– to be detailed in my next post. It was dangerously cold out, but we put on our extra pairs of socks, sweaters, and ventured out to find something to do. By this time of the night, the streets were completely deserted because all of the smarter people were nice and warm at home or in their neighborhood restaurant. We were already full and all the stores were all closed, so we ducked into a local wine shop that was about to close and found an Italian family completely settled into what seemed to be their permanent seats at the bar, relaxing and chatting animatedly. We asked for a recommendation for an inexpensive bottle of local wine and retreated back to our hotel room, where we watched a bizzaro vintage Italian movie on the only tv channel that worked. I loved that the feeling of having only two options in front of me for once– to either stay outside in the freezing cold with multiple layers of socks or to stay inside in a warm hotel room and decipher the plot of a 1970s romantic comedy that suddenly turns into a dark murder film at the last second.  Wouldn’t you have done the same?


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The truffles are here!

Truffle hunting: an intense, risky treasure quest requiring skill and instinct, traditionally shared by both Italian men and wild female pigs. (For culinary enjoyment and out of mistaken identity during mating season, respectively). Upon unearthing these treasures, the truffle hunter can sell each truffle for approximately 250 euros per 100 grams in Italy. In 2006, a wealthy businessman from Hong Kong purchased the most expensive truffle in the world at $160,406– an Italian white truffle weighing in at 3.3 pounds. Truffles are prized for their strong, unique flavor that infuse naturally with other ingredients and enhance any dish. They require several years to grow undisturbed in the root systems of oak, pine, or beech trees, before they are found by trained truffle hunting dogs that can also cost several thousand dollars. Truffles were traditionally hunted by wild female pigs who confused the strong scent for that of a boar. But because pigs are essentially un-trainable, dangerous, and end up destroying many delicate root systems, dogs make much better truffle-hunting companions.

During my Bologna market tour, I visited a specialty store that sold fresh white truffles. As soon as the store owner opened one plastic bin filled with fresh white truffles, Continue reading

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Demystifying Bologna’s Food Markets

Going to an Italian fresh food market for the first time can be a daunting experience. Regulars trade stories and recipes with the butchers, while pointing animatedly to cuts of meat based on the age and gender of the animal. Rows and rows of freshly-cut legs of prosciutto are stacked on the shelves of each salumerie, or  specialty “cold-cut” shop.

Fresh vegetables stands are lined up on the side of the street, often consisting of some never-before-seen plant species. Case in point… what am I supposed to this? And at the fish market, how would I even begin to deal with these?

After many confusing trips to the food market, I decided to schedule a food market tour Continue reading


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How to Make Delicious Pasta Sauce with 3 Simple Ingredients

There are times when, at the end of a long day, or upon returning from a weekend trip, I suddenly realize that my refrigerator is not actually “refrigerator-ing” anything. Somehow, the most random of food items end up being the surviving contents of my previously fully-stocked fridge. Unless you are some kind of food magician who can make something edible out of ramen noodles, ketchup, and one celery rib, I  highly recommend you stock up on these three basic, inexpensive ingredients that make up a delicious pasta sauce, even in the most dire of circumstances: canned tomatoes, butter, and onions. It also doesn’t hurt to have a small-ish block of Parmesan cheese sitting around in your fridge either- it can last for a while!

My friend Thuan discovered this recipe Continue reading


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Dreamy Capri

Sometimes when I’m a million miles away in daydream-land (or Pei-land, as I like to call it), I think about sitting in a nice beach chair on a beautiful little island and enjoying the sun, eating endless amounts of incredible food.

Then not so long ago, I went to Pei-land…

The Italian island of Capri does not have sandy beaches, but elegant high rocky cliffs. Continue reading


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Five Reasons Why Bologna is a Food Lover’s Dream

In Italy, the city of Bologna is known as “la grassa” (“the fat one”) because of its fantastically fatty and flavorful cuisine. Although I’ve hardly seen anyone I’d actually consider to be fat in Bologna, I can attest to the fact that “la grassa” is indeed an appropriate nickname. Tell anyone who has lived in Bologna for a while that you had a “traditional Bolognese meal” the other night and they will smile and groan while reminiscing about the last time they had five courses of tagliatelle Bolognese, crescentina, salumi, frommagi… the rest is just a blurry haze from the onset of food coma. Food, good company, and the leisurely pace at which you eat, make each meal in Bologna memorable.

1) The food is simple, satisfying, and amazing.

Case in point, pepata di cozze from the Ristorante Pizzeria Il Saraceno. Via Calcavinazzi, 2, 40121 Bologna.

This dish is made with the freshest, most tender mussels, pepper, some wine, and lemons on the side for some acidity.

2) Ingredients are fresh and easily accessible at local markets. Via Pescherie Vecchie features beautiful specialty food shops with large cuts of prosciutto hanging in the window, fresh cheeses still submerged in water, fresh pasta lightly dusted with flour sitting in wooden trays, and a variety of dried spices on the shelves. There are market stalls with fresh produce and fresh fish every morning. The fishmongers sell all kinds of seafood from langoustines to mackerels to squid. Butcher shops offer cuts of meat, whole chickens, pigs, and beef. If you’re wondering what the white piece of paper on the pig’s head is in the photo, it is a sign telling all prospective buyers that they’re too late- it’s sold!

3) Fat is embraced as an integral and natural part of food. Italians strategically incorporate fat into a dish to enhance its flavor and texture. Which is part of the reason why everything is so good– they don’t sacrifice or substitute taste to meet specific numbers such as calorie or fat counts. Continue reading


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